A Double Cragging.

This week, on Wednesday and Today, I headed cragging at Holyhead Mountain. Now, I was going to post about Wednesday earlier in the week; however, we never managed to get any photos- we did today, so I thought I’d combine a post of the two. It can be all colorful now! We did some really great routes during the two days, Wednesday with Hannah, Today with Matt. So where do I start? The classic of the crag, of course. Tension VS 4b, what a stunning route.

Tension was a route I’d wanted to do for ages; dominating the quartz buttress lies two striking lines. A VS that traverses a the huge roof before finishing over a bulge and the better, 3 star, Tension that moves left under the roof, and swings left around the arete to a steep crack system…fabulous climbing. So good in fact, that I lead this on Wednesday with Hannah and today with Matt! Leading it the first time was a real joy, finally getting on the route and starting the initial corner before trending left and climbing the first corner to the overhang….then swinging out on the jugs around the arete (crux).

Photo 1.1 – Me, leading Tension-just below the crux swing.

ImageOnce the crux swing is over, one move remains-don’t fall off this, the last gear isn’t close- and you’re standing on a large hold with both feet. Here it is possible to swap arms and shake out, more importantly, it’s a good time to slot in a bomber wire! The steep crack is easier than the crux; however, a series of many 4b moves remain, strung together. The gear, though, is also excellent and the holds positive-it is steep though. A fabulous, fabulous route!

Photo 1.2 – Me placing gear after the crux of Tension (don’t ask why I left the green rope out).

ImageSo, Tension was definitely a highlight. However, there were some other routes that stood out:

Today, the first route we did was A Pleasant Surprise HS 4c, I lead it and thought the climbing was excellent; however, definitely not 4c imo…more 4b. Also today, I lead a bold and delicate slab climb called Duffel, wonderful delicate moves lead across a thin slab to an arete and then back across the slab diagonally on small holds- wonderful thin climbing, the gear wasn’t inspiring though. You’d probably deck from the crux!

We managed to get lots of other routes done, including: The Sump Direct HS 4b, I lead this on Wednesday and seconded it today. Comfortably Numb VS 4c, I lead this today. Rock and Ice HS 4a, lead on Wednesday. New Boots and Panties S 4a, seconded today.  Lost Hope HS 4a, seconded today….and a few others.

All in all and excellent couple of days! I’ll post tomorrow after climbing in Ogwen!


Outdoors for Hannah!

Last week, I saw a post on UKC from Hannah stating that she was keen to graduate from indoor climbing to outdoor climbing. To cut a long story short, I made contact with her and after making some arrangements I offered to take her outside to door some climbing..

We met up at around 8:45am and introduced ourselves and soon we were on our way to South Stack ready to do some climbing at Holyhead Mountain. We parked up and chatted as we headed towards the crag, we decided to start easily on a VD called “hat”, it would be a good way to asses how Hannah was climbing and what she was comfortable with. I lead “hat” a delicate slabby groove line on the extreme right of the crag, Hannah seconded the route with ease and I could see that she’d done plenty of climbing inside. We continued in much the same vein, deciding to do a two pitched VD called Black Owen, I lead both pitches and again Hannah seconded them in fine style…due to this, I decided to take her on something a little harder.

On the decent from Black Owen, we passed a little VS 4c called Comfortably Numb, a very nice route. I decided I’d lead this and see how Hannah got on. The easy first slab climbs to a ledge before the wall rears up into your face, small cams protect the very thin moves on the head-wall from a ground fall; however, not from the ledge below: always an enjoyable lead. Hannah climbed well, despite falling from the crux she got it on her third go and her foot work was excellent!! Based on her climbing, we decided to head to another VS 4c called curains; however, it’s more like HS 4b.

I lead both pitches in one go, it’s relatively straight and short so there’s really no need to do it in two. The delicate rib continues through the crux and up a steeper crack at the end. Hannah climbed in good style again and soon we were heading down and planning her first lead…

We selected a Diff for her first lead, I gave her some tips and she set off. Not perfect, but most of her gear was great, I must say, in hindsight it wasn’t the best route for a first lead, the woman on it previously said it was. It was more like HD/VD and Hannah did very well. I lead the top pitch before we headed down for one final route.

As the last route, I took Hannah on one of my favorite Severe routes at the crag: Pigeon Hole Crack, I lead it quickly in really windy conditions, keen to get to the top and get down out of the wind. Hannah, given her slight and light frame, was being blown and buffeted and was relieved to top out without being blown from the crag. We headed down, racked away kits and ropes and headed from the car and back home.

A really nice day with excellent company, next post- Sunday!


Cragging at Holyhead!

Today, I met up with Ann for a days cragging at Holyhead Mountain. We didn’t manage to get photos unfortunately; however, we did some great routes and we even bumped into Johnny Dawes! So hopefully this post will still interest you guys! During the day we did several routes including:

Comfortably Numb VS 4c
Curtains VS 4c
Pigeon Hole Crack S 4a
Stairs S 4a

The day started a little day with thick clagg encasing the mountain and the crags; we met at the car park a little before 8:45am, picked up some ropes and kit and started the short walk across to the base of the crags. Despite the thick cloud and sea mist it remained warm and soon we were regretting wearing our jackets. We made quick progress and soon we were at the base of the first of our chosen routes, a nice little warm up line called Pigeon Hole Crack S 4a.

It was decided that I’d lead the first route of the day, the rock was still slightly damp from the sea mist but otherwise perfect. I made short work of the initial cracks before climbing a grove and making quick progress, past the a lovely thread to the top. The climbing was very straight forward, yet still very pleasant. Ann, too, enjoyed the route and climbed in fine style; we coiled ropes and headed down for route number two.

Secondly, we decided to head for a two pitched Severe called “Stairs”; I’d done the route a few times and enjoyed it very much. I lead the first pitch, a diagonal slab to an overhang; I placed some gear and pulled through the overhanging wall until I reached the upper slab. I traversed left and climbed the thin delicate arete before making rightwards moves to the belay stance. I belayed Ann to the stance; she thought the move through the overhang was quite hard for the grade but she climbed the rest in fine style. Ann lead through, the second pitch consisted of a short slab before a narrow ramp leads around a large block- Ann lead this in good style and soon she was bringing me up and we were coiling ropes and kit and heading down towards the base of the crag once again.

We’d not been rushing between routes, we enjoyed the time we had, especially considering the cloud had now brunt off leaving warm, bright sunshine. We leisurely headed further down the crag to the base of the next route…

Curtains, VS 4c was the next to-do route. The guidebook stated that it was a serious route that was bold and short of gear; however, I looked up at the route and felt that it was easily within my comfort zone. I racked up and started the bottom slab; soon I found a nice sling runner before making thin moves over a bulge. Another sling runner appeared and soon I was climbing the delicate and thin slab above; I placed yet more gear before reaching the final wall before the belay. Two mirco-cams and a small wire protected the next moves, arguably the crux, I made swift progress, unchallenged to the belay and romped up the easy second pitch rather than splitting it. Ann was soon following me to the top and afterwards, we both commented that we thought it was no harder than HS 4b.

It was now lunch time, so we set ourselves down and devoured our food, discussing the morning’s climbing. We packed away our kit ready to move down the crag again, in search of our next route. During our walk down the crag we passed the crack of King Bee Crack, I peered up at the climber making his way so smoothly up the crack- it was Johnny Dawes!! After saying a “hello” and watching the master ease his way up the classic climb, he shouted down to me that he had copies of his autobiography with him, if I liked one…how could I resist. We waited around for Johnny to complete the route (it didn’t take long) and to bring up his second, soon he reappeared at the bottom of the crag and took out a copy of his book from his bag. He wrote “To Chester, Johnny Dawes” and signed it, I was made up! I’d read about his exploits since I was a child and now we were sitting discussing routes, climbing and plans with a signed copy of his book in my hand!! I could have heard his stories for hours and watched his majestic climbing for even longer; however, we both needed to get back to the main point of the day- climbing! Me and Ann continued down the crag towards a VS 4c that I fancied doing; Ann was keen to do a VD next to it, that’s what we did next.

Ann lead the first pitch of a VD heading up a large crack in the slab before taking a belay below a chimney. Ann lead the first pitch quickly and easily and soon I was at the belay and climbing the steep, easy chimney above. A lovely route, despite the easy climbing, the moves were always interesting! We sorted out the ropes again and headed for our final route of the day.

Comfortably Numb, VS 4c was a route I’d wanted to do for a while. What the actual grade was, was much disputed. The eliminate nature of the route meant that one could move left/right and find easier ground; hence, some thought it was 4b. If the wall was taken direct, it was solid 4c, some saying 5a. Anyway, I romped up the easier lower section, reaching the ledge below the crux wall. I placed a cam under the bulge and pulled through before placing another cam. I ascended the wall direct on very thin crimps before reaching horizontal ground; the direct line was definitely 4c. Ann followed me, she found the crux tricky and announce that my lead was impressive and she agreed that route was definitely 4c! 

We packed away our gear, chatting about the routes and meeting Johnny. We’d had an excellent day, I was particularly chuffed to have done a couple of 4c routes and even more chuffed to be carrying away my signed book! We made the short walk back to the car park, eager to sample the coffee and cake on offer at the cafe!

An excellent day, me and Ann will be climbing again tomorrow at Rhoscolyn. Let’s hope for more good weather…